Prince Charming Springfold
& Bespoke Backing Paper
This effective card is put together more on freehand measuring than using exact points so it gives it a pleasantly rustic, handmade feel, accentuated in no small part by the bespoke backing paper which we are going to make first.
What you will need: Part I
Ordinary inkjet/copier paper
Distress Ink (I will be using the new Evergreen Bough colour)
Mister spray bottle
Mica powders/pigment inks (I will be using Opalite Interference Ink in Glacier Blue)
Heat tool
Old newspaper/magazine sheets.
What you will need: Part II
Bespoke backing paper from Part I900922 Cut as a Button Sugar Buttons topper sheet
A4 white base card
A4 matte backing card
Step One: Bespoke Paper
This is a two-in-one project because we will be making our own bespoke backing paper and using it on the springfold card. I found both these projects on an online tutorial and loved them so much that I just had to put them together and share them with you.Making the backing paper is incredibly simple but it is time consuming because you need to spend time drying it off. I would suggest making several sheets at once rather than making them on an as-needed basis because then you'll always have some in reserve.
Taking the piece of inkjet paper, scrunch it up really tightly so that it is good and crushed. Then lightly smooth it out onto your work surface and run your Distress Ink pad across the top. Use the pad itself rather than a blending tool for this so that you get a very rich colour.
This image shows my use of the new Distress Ink colour Seedless Preserves, which is a beautiful grape purple. This was the first attempt at making the backing paper but if you are recreating this project with the Prince Charming topper and frame, you will definitely need to use a green colour, like Evergreen Bough.
Once you have inked your paper with the Distress Ink pad, you will need to transfer the paper to a protective cover. You can use old newspaper or magazine sheets, or you could use an ink/splodge mat. Then, using a misting bottle, spray the paper with PLAIN WATER. You will need to give it a thorough soaking so that the ink bleeds across the paper.
Sorry for the bad angle of the shot; once again the editing didn't transfer to the blog.
Once you've got the paper wet through, carefully dry it using either a heat tool, a hot radiator or even a hairdryer if you don't have access to a heat gun. It will take an amount of time so don't rush the process and be patient.
Buttons Bites tip: If, like I will be, you want to use Mica powders or the Interference Inks to create a coloured/glitter glaze the best effect is gained when you've dried the paper thoroughly and then added the mist over the top. You will have to dry the paper again but if you add the glaze while the paper is wet, you won't get as concentrated an effect.
As above, once the paper is completely dry, use a separate misting bottle that contains a mixture of water and either your mica powder (eg. Cosmic Shimmer Mica Powder, Perfect Pearls etc.) or an ink product (eg. Liquid Pearls, Opalite Interference Ink bottles) and spritz it onto the paper. Don't be discouraged if you can't see the glitter or the shine straight away, sometimes you will need to dry the paper first before the effect makes itself known.
Don't worry if you feel like the mist is uneven or if blobs drop onto the paper from air bubbles or clots. It will add to the rustic theme and, after all, you can never have too much glitter when working with Sugar Buttons!
Once you have dried the paper for the second time, it is ready to use.
Now we're ready for action!
Step Two: The Card Base.
With your A4 piece of white base card, you will need to trim it to 13cm wide x (approx) 30cm long.Once you have that piece prepared, using a Hougie Board or freehand you will need to score it first at 7.5cm up from the base, then mark it again at 15cm. This will give you two panels measuring 7.5 cm each.
Now transfer your attention to the top, unscored section of the card. You need to find the halfway point along the top across the width, which should be around about 6.5cm. Make a small pencil mark.
Then you need to find the halfway point down the long side of the top section, which should be around 7.5cm. Again, make a small pencil mark.
Connect the points along the diagonal with a faint pencil line.
Now, from the 7.5cm halfway pencil mark that you made before, draw a diagonal line down the card to the bottom score line at the first 7.5cm mark. Do the same on the opposite side and then score and fold along all the pencil lines you have just made. The end result should look like the picture below;
The poor angle of this picture will make it difficult to see but it should give you an idea as to how the card should look. It also gives you an idea about how the folds will work.
The triangles at the sides will fold in and the rectangular panel at the top of your picture is the base of the card.
The loose triangles that were scored in the beginning to create the diamond topper shape need to be stuck down to the back. Don't be discouraged when you find that the template is a little top-heavy because it will eventually be weighted down by the backing card and the topper. But don't stick the bottom to the base yet because everything has to be decorated first.
This picture gives you a better insight into the finished base. Now you're ready to start layering up with the matte backing card and the Distressed paper that we made earlier.
Step Three: Layering
For this step you will need the A4 matte backing card that you chose earlier. It should be in a colour that will compliment the Distressed paper and the topper you will be using. I decided to chose a mid-dark green from Kanban's A3 selection.This step will take up nearly a full A4 piece of your Distressed paper so do take care not to make any mistakes otherwise you may have to make more.
The only piece that you can really measure properly and accurately is the 7.5cm x 13cm base that the springfold sits on. The rest, unfortunately, has to be measured by eye (unless of course you're rather good with a protractor!)
From the picture, you can see the blank area that hasn't been decorated. This is where you will apply the backing tape that will stick the bottom of the springfold to the base. Once this is completed, you are ready to decorate the top.
Step Four: The Topper.
Going back to your sheet of 900922 Cute as a Button toppers, you will notice that there are four figured toppers and four decorated frames that you can use. I decided to choose the Prince Charming figure because I wanted to give you all a topper that was green instead of repeating a colour that I've already used.If you wish, you can distress the figured topper in order to take away some of the stark white colour before fixing it in place. I decided to use the Distress Ink Shabby Shutters rather than the Evergreen Bough because it was a contrasting green, but also a paler shade.
You can't tell from the picture below but in order to create the best effect of the topper and the frame, it is good practise to mount the topper to the card first with 3D foam pads or decoupage glue and then double mount the frame afterwards. To do this, it helps if you have access to foam pads that are thicker than the usual 2-3mm but don't worry if you don't. I simply used some 3D foam tape and doubled up in order to give it the height. This makes the frame as much of a feature as the topper.
Well, there you have it. A very different Sugar Buttons card that would be perfect for the little or big Prince in your life. Plus you have the added bonus of learning a new technique for creating your own backing papers. I'm sure that will come in handy in the future!
THE END
Well done everyone! I hope you're happy with the result. As
always, if there is anything you're unsure about or if the instructions confuse
you in any way, feel free to contact me. Please don't be afraid to comment on my
project posts and leave me feedback. I'd love to hear how you're all getting
on.
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See you soon for another project! Happy crafting everyone.









