1 April 2013

Bite 6:


Prince Charming Springfold
& Bespoke Backing Paper

 


This effective card is put together more on freehand measuring than using exact points so it gives it a pleasantly rustic, handmade feel, accentuated in no small part by the bespoke backing paper which we are going to make first.


What you will need: Part I


Ordinary inkjet/copier paper
Distress Ink (I will be using the new Evergreen Bough colour)
Mister spray bottle
Mica powders/pigment inks (I will be using Opalite Interference Ink in Glacier Blue)
Heat tool
Old newspaper/magazine sheets.

 

 

 

 





What you will need: Part II

Bespoke backing paper from Part I
900922 Cut as a Button Sugar Buttons topper sheet
A4 white base card
A4 matte backing card



 



 

 

Step One: Bespoke Paper

This is a two-in-one project because we will be making our own bespoke backing paper and using it on the springfold card. I found both these projects on an online tutorial and loved them so much that I just had to put them together and share them with you.

Making the backing paper is incredibly simple but it is time consuming because you need to spend time drying it off. I would suggest making several sheets at once rather than making them on an as-needed basis because then you'll always have some in reserve.

Taking the piece of inkjet paper, scrunch it up really tightly so that it is good and crushed. Then lightly smooth it out onto your work surface and run your Distress Ink pad across the top. Use the pad itself rather than a blending tool for this so that you get a very rich colour.




This image shows my use of the new Distress Ink colour Seedless Preserves, which is a beautiful grape purple. This was the first attempt at making the backing paper but if you are recreating this project with the Prince Charming topper and frame, you will definitely need to use a green colour, like Evergreen Bough.

Once you have inked your paper with the Distress Ink pad, you will need to transfer the paper to a protective cover. You can use old newspaper or magazine sheets, or you could use an ink/splodge mat. Then, using a misting bottle, spray the paper with PLAIN WATER. You will need to give it a thorough soaking so that the ink bleeds across the paper.




Sorry for the bad angle of the shot; once again the editing didn't transfer to the blog.

Once you've got the paper wet through, carefully dry it using either a heat tool, a hot radiator or even a hairdryer if you don't have access to a heat gun. It will take an amount of time so don't rush the process and be patient.

Buttons Bites tip: If, like I will be, you want to use Mica powders or the Interference Inks to create a coloured/glitter glaze the best effect is gained when you've dried the paper thoroughly and then added the mist over the top. You will have to dry the paper again but if you add the glaze while the paper is wet, you won't get as concentrated an effect.

As above, once the paper is completely dry, use a separate misting bottle that contains a mixture of water and either your mica powder (eg. Cosmic Shimmer Mica Powder, Perfect Pearls etc.) or an ink product (eg. Liquid Pearls, Opalite Interference Ink bottles) and spritz it onto the paper. Don't be discouraged if you can't see the glitter or the shine straight away, sometimes you will need to dry the paper first before the effect makes itself known.

Don't worry if you feel like the mist is uneven or if blobs drop onto the paper from air bubbles or clots. It will add to the rustic theme and, after all, you can never have too much glitter when working with Sugar Buttons!

Once you have dried the paper for the second time, it is ready to use.

Now we're ready for action!

 

Step Two: The Card Base.

With your A4 piece of white base card, you will need to trim it to 13cm wide x (approx) 30cm long.



Once you have that piece prepared, using a Hougie Board or freehand you will need to score it first at 7.5cm up from the base, then mark it again at 15cm. This will give you two panels measuring 7.5 cm each.


 Now transfer your attention to the top, unscored section of the card. You need to find the halfway point along the top across the width, which should be around about 6.5cm. Make a small pencil mark.

Then you need to find the halfway point down the long side of the top section, which should be around 7.5cm. Again, make a small pencil mark.

Connect the points along the diagonal with a faint pencil line.

Now, from the 7.5cm halfway pencil mark that you made before, draw a diagonal line down the card to the bottom score line at the first 7.5cm mark. Do the same on the opposite side and then score and fold along all the pencil lines you have just made. The end result should look like the picture below;


The poor angle of this picture will make it difficult to see but it should give you an idea as to how the card should look. It also gives you an idea about how the folds will work.

The triangles at the sides will fold in and the rectangular panel at the top of your picture is the base of the card.



The loose triangles that were scored in the beginning to create the diamond topper shape need to be stuck down to the back. Don't be discouraged when you find that the template is a little top-heavy because it will eventually be weighted down by the backing card and the topper. But don't stick the bottom to the base yet because everything has to be decorated first.
This picture gives you a better insight into the finished base. Now you're ready to start layering up with the matte backing card and the Distressed paper that we made earlier.

 

Step Three: Layering

For this step you will need the A4 matte backing card that you chose earlier. It should be in a colour that will compliment the Distressed paper and the topper you will be using. I decided to chose a mid-dark green from Kanban's A3 selection.

This step will take up nearly a full A4 piece of your Distressed paper so do take care not to make any mistakes otherwise you may have to make more.


The only piece that you can really measure properly and accurately is the 7.5cm x 13cm base that the springfold sits on. The rest, unfortunately, has to be measured by eye (unless of course you're rather good with a protractor!) 
From the picture, you can see the blank area that hasn't been decorated. This is where you will apply the backing tape that will stick the bottom of the springfold to the base. Once this is completed, you are ready to decorate the top.

Step Four: The Topper.

Going back to your sheet of 900922 Cute as a Button toppers, you will notice that there are four figured toppers and four decorated frames that you can use. I decided to choose the Prince Charming figure because I wanted to give you all a topper that was green instead of repeating a colour that I've already used.

If you wish, you can distress the figured topper in order to take away some of the stark white colour before fixing it in place. I decided to use the Distress Ink Shabby Shutters rather than the Evergreen Bough because it was a contrasting green, but also a paler shade.

You can't tell from the picture below but in order to create the best effect of the topper and the frame, it is good practise to mount the topper to the card first with 3D foam pads or decoupage glue and then double mount the frame afterwards. To do this, it helps if you have access to foam pads that are thicker than the usual 2-3mm but don't worry if you don't. I simply used some 3D foam tape and doubled up in order to give it the height. This makes the frame as much of a feature as the topper.



Well, there you have it. A very different Sugar Buttons card that would be perfect for the little or big Prince in your life. Plus you have the added bonus of learning a new technique for creating your own backing papers. I'm sure that will come in handy in the future!

THE END

Well done everyone! I hope you're happy with the result. As always, if there is anything you're unsure about or if the instructions confuse you in any way, feel free to contact me. Please don't be afraid to comment on my project posts and leave me feedback. I'd love to hear how you're all getting on.

Check out our official Sugar Buttons Facebook page

Shop for supplies at

See you soon for another project! Happy crafting everyone.


Bite 5:

  

Fairy Waterfall

 


Well, everything is still absolutely barmy at Sugar Buttons HQ, especially with the news of Kanban going into Administration. There's been enough happening over here to fill a series of soap operas! But never mind about all that; we're here for projects and ideas aren't we?

The project I'm going to share with you in this installment is this beautiful fairy waterfall card. Now, usually you can obtain waterfall cards in die-cut kits that come pre-cut and scored, but today I'm going to give you all the tips and tricks to help you create your own DIY version completely from scratch. I hope you enjoy it.

You will need:


STAMP005 Pretty Fairy Duo clear stamp (Product code is our own unique ID)
STAMP007 Pretty Embellishments clear stamp set
STAMP008 Sweet Sentiments clear stamp set
Sugar Buttons patterned backing card (I will be using the rosebud sheet)
A3 contrasting matte backing card
5X7 card & envelope
Stamping card scraps
Memento stamping ink
Distress Ink in a complimentary colour (I will be using Spun Sugar)
Ink blending tool
Colouring pens (I will be using Spectrum Noir pens but any other stamping pen would be suitable)
Crafting ruler that displays inch measurements.



 

 Step One: Trimming the Pieces


Before we start with the instructions as to how to put the waterfall together, you will need to cut your various pieces of card to the following measurements:
1.  Cut a piece of your A3 matte backing card to 9" x 2"
2.  Cut a scrap of matte white card to 1" x 5"
3.  Cut some of your A3 matte backing card into four squares measuring 2" x 2"
4.  Cut some of your white stamping card into four squares measuring 1 3/4" x 1 3/4"
5.  Cut a piece of your A3 matte backing card to an appropriate measurement that will mount onto the strip from item 2).
6.  Trim your Sugar Buttons patterned backing card to an appropriate size for mounting to the face of the 5X7 card.
7.  Trim a piece of your A3 matte backing card to an appropriate measurement for mounting to the face of the 5X7 card.

The sequence of pieces should look like this:


 

 Step Two: The Waterfall Mechanism


The 9" x 2" strip of matte backing card that you trimmed in the previous step is the piece that will form the waterfall mechanism. Unfortunately, a Hougie Board won't be useful for making this waterfall card because the score marks you will need don't fall in the measurements of the Hougie Board, but a generic score-board would come in handy.

Lie your crafting ruler across the long edge of the strip like so (please forgive the bad angle, once again);


Without moving the ruler from this position, you will need to make small pencil marks at the following points;

2"
2 3/4"
3 1/2"
4 1/4"

Using your generic score-board (or freehand if you don't have one), fold the card at each of theses points well, going over the creases with a bone folder or the ruler's edge (take care not to damage the card). Once this is done, you can set the mechanism aside for now.

 

Step Three: Distressing & Stamping


Cover your work surface with a scrap piece of paper or some newspaper and, using a blending tool, Distress the whole area of each of the four 2" x 2" white squares. Leave them to dry naturally or speed up the process using a heat tool.

Once the squares are sufficiently dry, they are ready to be stamped on. Now, the trick to a good waterfall card is to create an appropriate sequence that adds coherence to the four squares. My first attempt at the waterfall card was to alternate between toppers and stamped sentiments but I wasn't happy with the end result. Then I was flicking through the stamps and came up with the idea that I am going to share with you now. I decided to create a story.

Now, the small fairy stamps on the Pretty Fairy Duo stamp set are somewhat bigger than the 2" x 2" square so the featured area will have to be lined up with great care. If you are using some of the embellishment stamps like I did then you will find that they will fit nicely without leaving too much empty space.

After the stamping is complete, the result will be this;


The story I tried to create was a fairy casting a spell and the sentiment 'fairy dust is a must' is a fitting conclusion to the idea. Overall, it has a lovely effect.

When you're happy with the result, it is time to colour them in. Take care when using pens that have a thick nib so that you don't go over the lines too much. Because of the Distress Ink layer, you will probably find that the ink will run more freely than if the card was left matte so bear this in mind as you colour.


Once the ink is dry, it adds a nice finishing touch to go over certain areas of the images with some glitter. Using a glue pen with a fine, biro-style nib (my personal favourite is the Quickie Glue Pen), draw over the parts of the images that you want to accent with glitter and then add a liberal layer of sparkle. Glamour Dust is perfect for this because it is such a fine, discreet glitter and is perfect when used with the fairies and princesses in the Sugar Buttons collection.

Unfortunately you won't be able to see the effects of the glitter in the photographs so you'll have to trust me. Naturally, any use of glitter is optional so don't feel like you have to use it.

Step Four: Matting Up.

Now that the trimming, stamping and colouring is complete it is time to layer the pieces together onto the matte backing card that we cut out earlier. Always prepare the card base first and secure the mounts before dealing with the waterfall.


I also Distressed the edges of the 5X7 card base to diminish the stark white appearance. I used the same Distress Ink colour as with the rest of the project.

Step Five: Taping & Arranging.

Now it is time to start finally putting the waterfall together. Set aside your completed card base for now and return your attention to the scored 9" x 2" strip that we prepared earlier. Just by looking at the pattern of the score lines, you will see that there is a section that is 2" x 2" square, then the series of score lines, and then a long strip at the top. The long, unscored area will act as the pulley mechanism.


In this picture, I have gone over the score lines in black so that you can clearly see where the tape should be placed. The above picture is the front face of the mechanism where the squares will be placed. The following picture is the back face;


On the back face, a piece of tape needs to be placed right at the bottom of the square area. This will anchor the mechanism to the 1" x 5" strip that we trimmed earlier.

Once all the tape is in place you can start sticking down the stamped squares. Make sure that you have them properly arranged so that whatever story you are telling isn't distorted. Of course, if you aren't telling a story and have just constructed a series of images you can arrange them how you like.

When taping the squares, make sure that the top of each square is in line with the fold line and doesn't go over it. You need to keep the hinges moving freely in order for there to be a smooth transition between the layers of the waterfall.


Step Six: The Band.

The 1" x 5" strip that we trimmed earlier will form the band that will hold the waterfall in place. The band consists of a plain piece of white card and a contrasting colour mount that is trimmed slightly smaller. This contrasting colour should be the same as you have used for the rest of the card.

Remove the backing from the last remaining tape strip at the back of the waterfall and fix it to the band as centralised as possible.


Before fixing the waterfall to the front of the base card, remember to fold the long flap of the mechanism down behind the waterfall. This will poke below the band and will form the pulley that will operate the effect.

Once everything is secured in place it is time to line it up on the base card. Try and get the waterfall as central and as straight as possible.

Then, using a pokey tool, pierce two holes through both sides of the band, running through the base card too and use subtle brads to hold it in place.



Step Seven: Finishing Off.

Once the topper is secure, pierce another hole at the bottom of the pulley to add a loop of ribbon.


Et voila!

You now have a completed waterfall card. You can place these toppers on any size of card base but I personally think that they look best on 5X7 because it doesn't leave too much empty space that you may struggle to fill. It creates a nice, understated little card that will bring a smile to anyone's face.

This last sequence of pictures is purely to show you each step of the waterfall:


Lovely isn't it?

THE END

Well done everyone! I hope you're happy with the result. As always, if there is anything you're unsure about or if the instructions confuse you in any way, feel free to contact me. Please don't be afraid to comment on my project posts and leave me feedback. I'd love to hear how you're all getting on.

Check out our official Sugar Buttons Facebook page

Shop for supplies at

See you soon for another project! Happy crafting everyone.

Bite 4:

 

 Prince Charming Pyrammage

 


Welcome to the first of three projects that I have made to try and make it up to you all for not uploading projects for so long. This Prince Charming pyrammage card is incredibly simple to put together and it is a technique that a lot of crafters rarely use in a DIY format.

Most pyrammage toppers are found in paper-range kits such as those supplied by the likes of Dovecraft, Papermania and Trimcraft. A lot of the topper sheets in the Sugar Buttons kit are also pyrammage. They're all pre-cut and are so easy to throw together. Personally, I find them rather soothing to sit and build, and you can do a task like that sat in front of the TV at night. 

This project will hopefully lead you through the process of creating your own pyrammage using the beautiful Prince Charming stamp from the Sugar Buttons collection. This is a perfect option for a man's/boy's card because you can tailor the colours appropriately.

Here we go everybody!

What you will need:

STAMP006 Prince Charming clear stamp set
A4 blue double-spot Sugar Buttons backing card (or other card of your choice)
A4 matte backing card in a contrasting colour
6X6 card & envelope
Distress Ink (I will be using Broken China)
Blending tool
Stamping ink (Memento Tuxedo Black works brilliantly)
Stamping card
Colouring pens (My personal favourites are Spectrum Noir but you can use whatever you have available)
Blu-Tac (Trust me!)


 Step One: Preparing.

Before we get started with the stamping we need to prepare the pyrammage layers. This is a good way to use up some scraps if you have them available. The stamping card needs to be trimmed to the following measurements;

1)  3 1/2" x 5"
2)  3" x 4 1/2"
3)  2 1/2" x 4"
4)  2" x 3 1/2"
5)  1 1/2" x 3"

You will notice that these measurements go down in half-inch increments. This will give you enough coverage for the pyrammage while also leaving room for coloured backing card layers in between each.

The matte backing card that you chose earlier needs to be trimmed very close to the above measurements - probably 2-3mm larger so that you get a tiny splash of colour. Referring back to the cover picture at the top of these instructions will give you an idea of how the finished result will look if you're unsure.


Step Two: Stamping.

Once you have trimmed the stamping card to size, you need to stick them together with a NON-PERMANENT method. This is where the Blu-Tack comes in; using a very small amount, stick each of the layers together with the Blu-Tac in order of size. 

Now, you must mount your stamp to a clear surface - an acrylic block (or CD case if you don't have a block), otherwise you will have great difficulty lining the stamp up with the layers. When you're ready, ink it up with your chosen stamping ink and firmly stamp the image onto the top of the card pile. Really lean down hard so that you get a good coverage.

Carefully peel off the stamping block and let the ink dry for a few seconds. Now you're ready to colour it in. Don't separate the layers before colouring in, just colour the image as it is.



Step Three: Separating.

Once Prince Charming is all coloured in, you need to separate the layers so that you can distress them and mount them onto their backing mats. You will need to do this very carefully so that the Blu-Tac doesn't tear your card pieces.



Step Four: Distressing.

You don't have to Distress the edges of the layers if you don't want to but if you do then Distress each layer individually so that you get a nice, even covering. Always use an ink colour that is complimentary to the colour scheme you have chosen. Because I have chosen blue backing card, I have used Broken China. Don't worry about going over the coloured areas of the image because it shouldn't distort the colours if you're just using a light layer of ink.


Step Four: Layering up.

Once the layers are Distressed, it is time to mount them onto the mats. Use double-sided tape or an appropriate glue to do this. Don't use 3D foam pads or decoupage silicone for this part, that comes after.


 Forgive the pencil marks that I made in this picture; that was a guide for me so that I knew the measurements of each panel. Now comes the pyrammage process. Using 3D foam pads, foam tape or 3D decoupage glue, layer the images up carefully in order of size. Make sure the borders line up well so that the image isn't distorted in any way.


Your topper is now complete.

Step Five: Preparing the Card

Once your pyrammage topper is complete, it is time to prepare the card that it will be matted onto. This is where your 6X6 card and the A4 sheet of Sugar Buttons backing card comes in. You can choose any backing card that will compliment your pyrammage topper, and for this project I chose the blue duo spot. In order to create the best effect, I decided to use both the positive and negative sides of the backing card and layer the topper in the centre so that one side shows white spot on blue and the other side shows blue spot on white. This method will create wastage so save your off-cuts for another project. They're sure to come in handy.


Always measure the card that you will be mounting onto before you trim the backing card; just because the manufacturers declare a card to be 6X6 doesn't always make it so. For instance, the card I used in this project ended up being 5 3/4" square.

You won't need to leave a lot of border between the white card and the backing so trim it as close to the edge of the card as possible. Then mount it to the card using double-sided tape or glue. All that is left to do is position the pyrammage topper in the centre of the card.


 Step Six: Final Thought...


This completes the project, but I want to finish by sharing another pyrammage method that is more challenging but certainly creates an impact. I took inspiration for this from a Bazoo pyrammage book that I found at the shop. This book contained conventional pyrammage toppers like what we have just created together, but also something that I have termed 'Zany Pyrammage'. 

The Zany Pyrammage uses the same basic technique as described in the previous steps but instead of cutting each layer slightly smaller and smaller each time, this one involves cutting at odd angles.


This example uses the STAMP001 Birthday Ballerina clear stamp set.

Using simple pieces of A6 stamping card, I stamped the same image three times and then an extra little piece for the crown of her head. I coloured them all identically too.

Now, my trick to creating zany pyrammage is to use each layer to accentuate a certain part of the image like you do in decoupage. For instance, the first layer accentuates her balancing leg; the second accentuates the majority of her dress and her extended leg etc. working upwards to the crown of her head (see the last picture if you're unsure).



Once you have created the zany cuts, use Blu-Tac to piece them all together to see how they look before committing to a layout.

I Distressed each layer individually using one of the new Distress Ink colours (Shaded Lilac)  and then mounted them up using 3D foam pads. The end result is extremely effective and fits nicely onto a C6 card.


 Finally! The last photo uploaded the right way round!

Well, I hope you've enjoyed working through this project with me.

THE END

Well done everyone! I hope you're happy with the result. As always, if there is anything you're unsure about or if the instructions confuse you in any way, feel free to contact me. Please don't be afraid to comment on my project posts and leave me feedback. I'd love to hear how you're all getting on.
Check out our official Sugar Buttons Facebook page
Shop for supplies at
See you soon for another project! Happy crafting everyone.





 

14 February 2013

Bite 3:

 

Blue Damsel

 
 
 
I am writing this post this afternoon with this view outside my window. I can't believe how the weather has changed in just a few hours!

However, it makes the perfect setting for a pretty little mini-project; a Sugar Buttons corner bookmark that would make any literary feat a true designer staple.

This project shouldn't be too demanding and only needs very basic materials.
 
 
 

You will need:

900921 Princess Posies Sugar Buttons topper sheet.
One piece of Sugar Buttons Pretty Paper trimmed to 8X8 size
One piece of Sugar Buttons Pretty Paper no smaller than 4X4 (perfect for using up scraps!)
(I will be using the fairy wands and some busy buttons scrap)
 Embellishments - if required.
 
I have laid out everything you will need in the picture below, minus glue, tape, foam pads etc;
 
 
You won't be needing the purple dotty card that is pictured above; my original plan for the bookmark didn't work out as planned so I had to alter the topper I used. The Button Bites projects certainly keep me on my toes! Sorry for the bad angle of the shot; I promise you that I do edit these images but they keep importing wrong.
 

Step One: Folding the Skeleton

Using the 8X8 piece of Sugar Buttons Pretty Paper (mine is fairy wands), you need to fold it in half and then into quarters as shown below;
 
 
This will give you a bookmark that is roughly 4" X 4" square, give or take. It will sit nicely over the corner of your pages.
 
With the paper fully folded into quarters, what you need to do is hold it with the open leaves facing towards you and, with your fingers, find the square that will act as the back of your bookmark.
 

When making corner bookmarks it is easier to work with double-sided paper but sadly the Sugar Buttons Pretty Paper is only one-sided. We couldn't think of everything could we? This is where that second piece of Pretty Paper comes in, but more about that in another step.
 
Once you have found the square that is going to be visible, it is a good idea to mark it with a little pencil mark like I've done below;
 
 
 It's a little difficult to see but hopefully you get the idea. The pencil mark is just a guide so that you know which piece to stick the backing sheet onto.
 

Step Two: The Backing Sheet

You will only need a piece of scrap backing paper for this step, hence why I've decided to use a piece of the busy buttons Pretty Paper that I had left over from the last Bite.
 
Using the folded square space as a guide, measure out the required amount of backing paper and trim it to size. Then stick it down with double-sided tape or a tape roller, covering the pencil mark. Make sure that the bottom corner lines up neatly as this will be the only part that's visible.
 
 
 

Step Three: The Pocket

 
This picture illustrates the more difficult way to fold the triangles. The easier method has only just occurred to me while writing this post...common sense isn't a strong point of mine!

You can make the corner of the bookmark one of two ways;

1. You can fold the corners of the squares inside one another and fold them down (as shown to the left)

2. You can fold the corners of the squares outside of one another. You can fold them well and then bend them back on themselves to create the pocket for the bookmark (this way is infinitely easier!)

You don't have to fold the triangles right from the corners; it is wise to leave a minimum of a centimetre between the fold and the corner so that you don't get as much wear on the pocket. 
 

The end result should look like this;
 
 
 As you can see, the busy buttons backing paper contrasts the fairy wands nicely.
 
Now that you can see how the bookmark will work, you will notice that there is a gap in the leaves of the pocket along the top edge (running left to right when using this picture as a guide). You can tack these down with double-sided tape to give it a cleaner appearance.

 

Step Four: Decoration

Now that you've got the structure of the bookmark complete, you can decorate the front. You can use one of the smaller stamps from the Sugar Buttons collection (found in the duo sets), or you can use one of the toppers. I have decided to do the latter.
 
I chose one of the damsels from the 900921 Princess Posies topper sheet. You must take care to remove the holding tabs using some fine-nosed scissors because the edges of the topper will look messy otherwise.
 
On this first example, I simply added 3D foam pads to the back, taking care to line the topper up first so I knew where to put them, and just mounted the topper to the pocket of the bookmark.
 
 
 
 
 However, you could always use one of the Spellbinders Nestabilities dies to trim up the topper a little more. I made another example when I was trying out the easier way to make the bookmark pocket and decorated it a little differently;
 

Using the SBS4-192 Blossom Spellbinders Nestabilities die, I created a lightly scalloped border piece to mount my topper onto. The card I used is a piece of Kanban Mirri Silk Pastel Pink.

I finished the pretty damsel off with some flat-backed pink pearl embellishments but you could always use some Liquid Pearls to create the same effect if you have a steady hand.

The backing paper was, again, from the Sugar Buttons Pretty Paper Pad; an 8X8 square of basic pastel pink and a 4X4 square of gathered rosebuds.

Overall, the effect is certainly beautiful. I may even keep this one for myself!
Whatever embellishments you decide to use, make sure they won't be damaged by the book! After all, a bookmark this beautiful is meant to be used.
 
 
 

THE END

Well done everyone! I hope you're happy with the result. As always, if there is anything you're unsure about or if the instructions confuse you in any way, feel free to contact me. Please don't be afraid to comment on my project posts and leave me feedback. I'd love to hear how you're all getting on.
 
Check out our official Sugar Buttons Facebook page
 
 
Shop for supplies at
 
See you soon for another project! Happy crafting everyone.